Before 28 days, lift the blade
New concrete keeps curing and gaining strength for weeks after it looks finished. A car is fine on a residential driveway after about a week, but a plow blade puts a different kind of pressure on the surface, a steady scrape rather than rolling weight, and it catches edges a tire never would.
If you have to clear snow before the slab is fully cured, raise the blade an inch or so off the surface and let it float the top layer of snow rather than dig for pavement. It is a slower pass, but it keeps steel off a young joint. A light dusting is a good time to leave the plow parked and shovel or blow the snow instead, saving the blade for the storms that actually need it.
After 28 days, plow it like any other slab
Once the concrete is close to full strength, normal plowing does not ask more of it than a car already does. There is nothing special about a new slab at that point other than that it is new. Set the blade the way you would on any other driveway and clear it the way you always have.
The edges are where a blade catches first
The outside few inches of any pour are the thinnest, least supported part of the slab, whether the load is a tire or a blade. Keep the plow off the lip along the garage, the walk, and the property line until the driveway has had real time, even after the 28 day mark.
A blade that drags into a control joint instead of riding over it can chip the edge of that joint. That is a cosmetic issue more often than a structural one, but it is avoidable with a slightly higher blade setting on a new driveway. That is separate from frost heave, which comes from the ground moving under the slab over multiple winters, not from anything a plow does in one storm.
What a first winter means for salt too
If this is the driveway's first winter, de-icing salt should stay out of the picture regardless of where you are against the 28 day mark, and sand covers the traction problem in the meantime. That is a separate question from plowing itself, and our answer on ice melt walks through it.
Both rules come from the same fact: green concrete is more porous and less forgiving than concrete that has had a full year to finish curing. A pour that lands in late fall is going into its first winter almost immediately, while one poured the previous spring has already had a full season to settle in before the first snow ever falls.